![]() ![]() In recent years, Duval Street has actually struggled to maintain its raw, raucous flavor, as a spate of newer, swankier spots have opened in the spaces that formerly housed raunchy T-shirt and souvenir shops. Here you'll find good restaurants, fun bars, live music, rickshaw rides, and lots of shopping. The heart of town offers party people a good time - that is, if your idea of a good time is the smell of stale beer, loud music, and hardly shy revelers. Of course, there are always the calm waters of the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico all around. In fact, exploring the side streets always seems to yield a new discovery. Don't be afraid to explore these residential areas, as conchs are notoriously friendly. Fortunately, there are plenty of these, and Key West's greatest historical charm is found just off the beaten path. Laid-back Key West still exists, but it's now found in different places: the backyard of a popular guesthouse, for example, or an art gallery, a secret garden, a clothing-optional bar, or the hip hangouts of Bahama Village. It's definitely not the seedy town Hemingway and his cronies once called their own. This once low-key island has been thoroughly commercialized - there's a Hard Rock Cafe smack in the middle of Duval Street, and thousands of cruise-ship passengers descend on Mallory Square each day. The locals, or "conchs" (pronounced conks), and the developers here have been at odds for years. I think it's a bizarre fusion of both - a fascinating look at small-town America where people truly live by the (off) beat of their own drum, albeit one with a Coach outlet, Banana Republic, Starbucks, and, most recently, a handful of multimillion-dollar condo developments, thrown in to bring you back to reality.
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